We are currently closed while we propagate and grow plants for fall.
We’ll reopen on October 1 for the next planting season
​Planning Your Garden
Start small. Grow what you love to eat. It's far better to have a small garden that thrives than a large one that becomes overwhelming. A successful first season will build your confidence and naturally encourage you to expand over time.
Choose the Right Location
A good location can make the difference between a productive garden and a frustrating one.
Consider:
-
Sunlight: Most vegetables need 6–8 hours of sunlight each day. Morning sun is ideal, while afternoon shade can be beneficial during our hottest months. The angle of the sun changes between fall, winter, and spring. A location that receives full sun in October may be partially shaded by a tree or building in January. Pay attention to where shadows fall before choosing a permanent garden location.
-
Water: Choose a location where you can install automatic irrigation. Consistent watering is one of the keys to a productive vegetable garden. This doesn't have to be a complicated irrigation system. If you have a nearby hose bib, you can add a smart hose timer to a drip system and automate your watering without installing new valves or underground pipe.
-
Convenience: Place your garden close enough that you'll visit it often. The best gardens are the ones you walk through every day.
-
Microclimates: Walls, trees, patios, and buildings all create warmer, cooler, sunnier, or shadier areas that can be used to your advantage.
-
Wildlife and pets: Think about who else may be interested in your vegetables before you plant them.
-
Who will use the garden: Think about who will be using the garden. Young children, older adults, and gardeners with mobility challenges may all benefit from different layouts or bed heights.
Choose Your Garden Style
In-ground Gardens
-
Hold moisture well.
-
Least expensive.
-
Require more preparation and soil improvement
Every gardening method has advantages and disadvantages. Choose the one that best fits your space, budget, and physical needs.
Containers
-
Perfect for patios and small spaces.
-
Easy to move as the seasons change.
-
Dry out more quickly and experience greater temperature fluctuations.
Raised beds
-
Instant garden.
-
Easier to reach and maintain.
-
Excellent for improving poor soils.
-
Build beds no wider than 4 feet so you can comfortably reach the center from either side. I recommend a depth of at least 18 inches, and if bending or kneeling is difficult, consider building them even taller so you can sit on the edge while you work.
Think Ahead
Your garden will change throughout the year.
Think about:
-
How large your plants will become.
-
Whether they'll shade nearby crops.
-
How you'll access the garden for harvesting and maintenance.
-
Who will be helping use or care for the space.
Planting Tip
A west-facing block wall absorbs heat during the day and slowly releases it overnight, creating a warmer microclimate. This can help extend the season for warm-season crops like tomatoes, squash, melons, and peppers when planting in early fall.
Living Soil
Regardless of whether you garden in raised beds, containers, or directly in the ground, healthy soil is the foundation of a productive vegetable garden.
Healthy soil does far more than hold a plant upright. It stores water, supplies nutrients, allows roots to breathe, and supports billions of organisms that work together to keep plants healthy.
Choosing the Right Soil
I recommend using native soil as the foundation for both in-ground and raised beds. It's economical because you're using what you already have. When mixed with compost, our coarse, sandy desert soils provide excellent drainage while contributing minerals and a naturally occurring community of beneficial soil organisms, including mycorrhizae, that are already adapted to our local environment.
Garden Type
Soil Mix
Raised Beds
60% native soil, 40% compost
Container
50% potting soil, 30% soilless mix (perlite, vermiculite, coir, etc.), 20% compost
In-Ground Beds
60% native soil, 40% compost
These are starting points, not rigid formulas. Your soil, watering habits, and the crops you're growing may require small adjustments over time.
Compost vs Mulch
Compost
Compost feeds the soil. It adds organic matter, improves soil structure, supports soil life, and gradually releases nutrients for plants.
Mulch
Mulch covers the soil. It reduces evaporation, keeps the soil cooler, suppresses weeds, and protects the organisms living beneath the surface.
If you can still recognize pieces of bark or wood, it's mulch, not compost.
I prefer straw mulch around vegetables because it breaks down quickly and is easy to work with. Bark mulch is better suited to pathways, trees, and shrubs, where it lasts much longer.
Living Soil
Healthy soil is more than dirt. It is made up of minerals, airspace, water, organic matter, and a thriving community of organisms including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, insects, and earthworms. Each plays an important role in building healthy plants.
The less we disturb this community, the healthier it becomes. Whenever possible, practice minimal tillage to protect the structure of the soil and the organisms that call it home.
Desert Soils
Desert soils naturally contain very little organic matter because decomposition happens slowly and there is relatively little plant material returning to the soil each year. That means they are often low in nitrogen and other nutrients compared to soils in wetter climates.
Crop Rotation
Different vegetables use nutrients differently. Rotating crops helps prevent one area of the garden from becoming depleted. Heavy feeders, such as tomatoes and corn, can be followed by lighter feeders or legumes, which form partnerships with bacteria that fix atmospheric nitrogen. Much of that nitrogen becomes available to future crops as the roots and plant residues break down.
Seeds vs Transplants
Seeds
-
Lower cost
-
More variety
-
Strong root systems
-
Best for gardeners who can plan ahead
-
Easy to save for future gardens
Transplants
-
More expensive
-
Limited to what is available
-
Instant gratification
-
Great for beginners or late starts
-
Convenient
Seeds Are Amazing
Seeds are living organisms. Inside each one is an embryo, a stored food supply, and a protective seed coat. Everything needed to begin a new plant is already there. It simply waits for the right combination of moisture, temperature, oxygen, and light (or darkness, depending on the species) before it begins to grow.
Helping Seeds Germinate
Give your seeds the best chance of success:
-
Plant about twice as deep as the seed is wide.
-
Keep the top inch of soil consistently moist until seedlings emerge.
-
Water gently so seeds aren't washed away.
-
Allow young roots to grow downward in search of moisture.
-
Avoid compacted soil.
-
Plant when soil temperatures are appropriate for that crop.
Most germination failures aren't caused by bad seed. They're usually caused by planting too deeply, inconsistent moisture, or planting at the wrong temperature.
Planting Tip
The most common mistake I see is planting seeds too deeply. Tiny seeds have only a limited amount of stored energy. If they're planted too deep, they may use up those reserves before reaching the surface.
Warm Season vs. Cool Season Crops
Vegetables are generally divided into two groups based on the temperatures they prefer to grow in.
Cool season crops thrive in cooler weather and tolerate light frosts. Examples include lettuce, spinach, broccoli, carrots, peas, and cabbage.
Warm season crops prefer warm soil and air temperatures and are damaged by frost. Tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, cucumbers, melons, and corn all fall into this group.
Planting at the right time is just as important as choosing the right variety. A perfectly healthy seed planted in the wrong season may never germinate or produce well.
Garden Design
Start by Thinking in Three Dimensions
One thing many new gardeners do is think about how large a plant is today instead of how large it will become.
Plant Spacing
Before you plant, imagine how much space that vegetable will need when it's fully grown.
-
A broccoli plant will eventually fill about a square foot.
-
A carrot is only about the size of a quarter, so you can grow around 16 in that same space.
-
Green onions need even less room.
-
Beets fall somewhere in between.
The goal is to give each plant enough room to mature without wasting valuable growing space.
A helpful trick is to look at your seed packet. It usually gives two spacing recommendations:
-
How closely to sow the seeds.
-
How far apart to thin the seedlings.
When planning your garden, use the final thinning distance, not the initial planting distance.
As a general guide:
-
12 inches apart = about 1 plant per square foot
-
6 inches apart = about 4 plants per square foot
-
4 inches apart = about 9 plants per square foot
-
2–3 inches apart = about 16 plants per square foot
Think of the square foot as a visual reference, not a rule. You can plant in rows, blocks, checkerboards, or almost any layout that works for your space.
Intensive planting allows you to grow more food in the same amount of space. I use a modified intensive planting style inspired by the principles of Square Foot Gardening®. Rather than leaving large areas of bare soil, I plant vegetables close enough that their mature leaves eventually shade the ground. This helps reduce evaporation, suppress weeds, and often increases production while still giving each plant the room it needs to thrive.
-
More food in less space.
-
Reduced evaporation.
-
Cooler soil.
-
Fewer weeds.
-
Less wasted irrigation.
Companion Planting
Companion planting has been practiced for centuries. While many traditional companion planting recommendations haven't been scientifically proven, there is evidence that diverse plantings can influence insect behavior, attract beneficial insects, and improve overall garden health. They might be producing odors that confuse or deter pests or their scent may mask or hide a crop from pests. They can also be used as a nurse crop to provide food or a habitat for beneficial insects.
​Examples:
-
Alliums are thought to discourage aphids and other insects.
-
Basil is a traditional companion for tomatoes.
-
Nasturtiums attract aphids and may help draw squash bugs and cucumber beetles away from vegetables.
-
Mustards are commonly used as trap crops.
Companion plants may:
-
Confuse or repel pests.
-
Attract pollinators.
-
Provide nectar and pollen for beneficial insects.
-
Act as trap crops.
-
Improve biodiversity.
Biodiversity
A vegetable garden doesn't have to contain only vegetables.
Flowering plants bring in pollinators that help many crops produce food. They also provide nectar and pollen for beneficial insects that prey on pests. Birds, butterflies, and native bees all contribute to a healthier garden ecosystem.
It can also distract the birds from my tomatoes. Plus, it's just pretty to look at.
Different plants have different nutrient needs and different rooting depths. Growing a diversity of plants helps make better use of the space and supports a healthier garden ecosystem.
Cover the Soil
One of the biggest mistakes I see in vegetable gardens is leaving bare soil between plants. Bare soil heats up quickly, dries out faster, and provides an ideal place for weeds to germinate.
I try to keep my soil covered whenever possible using a combination of straw mulch and living plants. Straw mulch protects the soil while young plants are getting established. As the vegetables grow, their leaves eventually take over, creating a living mulch that shades the ground.
Keeping the soil covered has several benefits:
-
Reduces evaporation and conserves water.
-
Keeps the soil cooler during hot weather.
-
Helps suppress weeds.
-
Protects soil biology from extreme temperatures.
-
Reduces soil crusting and erosion.
By the time my garden reaches full size, I want to see very little bare soil. The plants themselves become part of the mulch.
In our climate, shade isn't just for people. It's one of the best things you can give your soil.
Watering
Watering is one of the most important parts of vegetable gardening, but it's also one of the hardest things to give exact instructions for. Soil type, weather, season, plant size, and stage of growth all affect how often your vegetables need water.
Germination and Young Seedlings
Seeds must remain consistently moist while germinating. If the soil surface dries out, germination may stop before the seedling reaches the surface.
I often use overhead sprays during this stage because they keep the seedbed evenly moist. Once seedlings are established, watering can gradually become less frequent.
Established Plants
As vegetables grow, their root systems become larger and are able to explore more of the soil. Rather than watering as often, apply enough water to thoroughly wet the entire root zone before watering again.
Apply enough water to thoroughly wet the entire root zone before watering again. Drip irrigation is often a good choice because it delivers water directly to the soil where the roots can use it while reducing evaporation.
Containers
Containers follow the same principles as garden beds, but they dry out much more quickly because they have less soil volume and all sides are exposed to heat and air. Expect to water containers more frequently, especially during warm weather.​
Want to Learn More About Irrigation?
Understanding when and how to water is one of the biggest challenges in gardening. Our Understanding Irrigation guide explains:
-
How deep to water different plants
-
How to check soil moisture with the rebar test
-
Drip irrigation vs. high-volume irrigation
-
GPH vs. GPM
-
Smart irrigation controllers
-
Watering native landscapes and vegetable gardens
Saving Seeds
Save Seed from Your Best Plants
Saving seed is one of the easiest ways to reduce gardening costs. A single tomato, lettuce, or bean plant can produce enough seed for many future gardens.
Every plant that survives, grows well, and produces seed has already proven it can thrive in your garden. By saving seed from your healthiest plants year after year, you're gradually selecting for plants that perform well under your local growing conditions.
There's even some fascinating science behind this. Plants don't simply react to their environment. They can change how certain genes are expressed in response to stresses like heat, drought, insects, and disease. This process, called epigenetics, doesn't change the plant's DNA. Instead, it changes how the plant uses the genetic information it already has. In some cases, these changes may even be passed to the next generation.
Epigenetics is just one reason seed saving can be so rewarding. Combined with natural selection, it helps explain why gardeners who save seed often develop plants that become increasingly well adapted to their own gardens over time.
Every year, countless older varieties disappear from gardens and seed catalogs. By growing and saving seed from open-pollinated varieties, home gardeners help preserve the incredible genetic diversity that makes our food system more resilient. Today's unusual variety could become tomorrow's solution to drought, disease, or changing climates.
I tend to choose heirloom varieties whenever I can, and it's not just because they're open-pollinated.
Food is one of the ways we carry our history with us.
In many parts of the world, families have remained connected to the same land for generations, and the foods they grow reflect that history. In the United States, our story is more complicated. Immigration, migration, and the displacement of Indigenous peoples have shaped both the people who live here and the foods we grow.
For many families, seeds became more than something to plant. They became a connection to home. Even when people could no longer return to the places they came from, they could still grow the tomatoes, beans, peppers, or squash their grandparents grew. Those familiar flavors, recipes, and harvest traditions kept a piece of their heritage alive.
I think that's one of the beautiful things about heirloom varieties. They don't just preserve genetic diversity. They preserve stories. Every seed carries a history, connecting us to the people who grew it before us and allowing us to pass that story to the next generation.
Seed Types
Open Pollinated: Produces plants that grow true to type when pollinated by the same variety.
Heirloom: An open-pollinated variety that has been passed down for generations because of its desirable qualities.
Hybrid (F1): A cross between two parent varieties selected for specific traits. Seeds saved from hybrids usually do not grow true to the parent plant.
Landrace: A genetically diverse population that has adapted to a particular region over time through natural selection and traditional farming practices.
GMO: A plant whose DNA has been modified using genetic engineering techniques that cannot be achieved through traditional breeding.
Should I Worry About Cross-Pollination?
For most home gardeners, probably not.
Cross-pollination is primarily a concern when you're saving seed and want it to grow true to the parent variety. Commercial seed growers go to great lengths to prevent unwanted crosses because consistency is important.
If you're simply growing vegetables to eat, cross-pollination usually isn't something to worry about. The fruit you harvest this season won't change. If you save seed and a cross does occur, you may end up with a surprise next year. Sometimes it's disappointing. Sometimes it's the beginning of a wonderful new variety.
Maintaining Your Garden
Fertilizing Your Vegetables
Unlike our native plants, most vegetables benefit from supplemental fertilizer. They grow quickly, produce heavily, and remove nutrients from the soil throughout the season.
Different vegetables also have different nutritional needs depending on what you're hoping to harvest.
-
Leafy vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, and kale benefit from higher nitrogen because you're growing leaves.
-
Root vegetables such as carrots, beets, and radishes prefer a more balanced fertilizer. Too much nitrogen encourages lush tops at the expense of root development.
-
Flowering and fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers benefit from nutrients that support flowering and fruit production once they begin blooming.
The goal isn't simply to fertilize more. It's to provide the nutrients your plants need at the right time.
Container gardens deserve special attention. Because watering gradually washes nutrients out of the potting mix, containers generally require more frequent fertilization than plants growing in the ground.
Healthy soil should always come first. Fertilizer replaces nutrients that have been used by your plants, but it doesn't replace good soil. Think of fertilizer as feeding the soil so the soil can support healthy plants.
Fertilizer Forms
Organic vs. Synthetic Fertilizers
Fertilizers are generally divided into two categories: organic and synthetic.
Organic fertilizers are derived from naturally occurring plant, animal, or mineral materials. They release nutrients gradually as soil organisms break them down, while also contributing organic matter and supporting healthy soil biology.
Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured to provide nutrients in forms that are immediately available to plants. They can produce rapid growth but do not add organic matter or help build the living soil ecosystem.
Both provide the essential nutrients plants need. The difference is where those nutrients come from, how quickly they become available, and how they affect the soil over time.
Granular
-
Applied to the soil and watered in.
-
Generally provides a slower, longer-lasting source of nutrients.
Liquid
-
Mixed with water and absorbed more quickly.
-
Can be applied in two ways:
-
Soil Drench: Applied around the root zone where nutrients are absorbed through the roots.
-
Foliar Spray: Sprayed directly onto the leaves for rapid nutrient uptake. This can be especially useful during periods of plant stress, such as extreme heat, when quick access to certain nutrients may benefit the plant.
-
Always apply foliar sprays during the coolest part of the day, and avoid spraying when pollinators are active. Check flowers for resting native bees before treating blooming plants.
Understanding Fertilizer Labels
Plants require both macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) and micronutrients such as iron, zinc, magnesium, and manganese. Healthy soil contains far more than just N-P-K.
Don't assume bigger numbers mean a better fertilizer. Organic fertilizers often have lower N-P-K values because they release nutrients more slowly and work with the soil biology instead of simply providing a quick dose of nutrients.
Pest & Disease Management
One of the realities of gardening is that you'll probably have pests, and they will probably eat some of your plants. That's part of growing food.
The goal isn't to eliminate every insect. It's to decide how much damage you're willing to tolerate and what methods you're comfortable using to manage it. That decision may change from plant to plant and even from season to season.
One of the biggest lessons I've learned is that timing matters. Early in the season, I may control aphids with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap to protect young plants. Later in the season, I'll often let them remain because they provide food for beneficial insects like lady beetles, lacewings, and hoverflies. Those predators help keep future pest populations in check.
I also use trap crops. Rather than spraying the vegetables I'm planning to eat, I grow plants specifically to attract pests away from my crops. If necessary, I treat or remove those plants instead. It keeps the food we're harvesting cleaner while still giving insects somewhere to go.
Companion planting can also play a role. While many traditional companion planting claims haven't been scientifically proven, there is evidence that diverse plantings can confuse pests, attract beneficial insects, and improve overall garden health.
Ultimately, the choices you make are yours. One of the benefits of growing your own food is deciding how it is grown and what, if anything, you choose to use in your garden.
DesertStrawHouse Tip
One trick I use is to sow a fast-growing crop like radishes alongside slower germinating vegetables. The radishes sprout first, giving hungry insects something to feed on while the rest of the garden is still emerging. Many common garden insects complete their life cycle in about a week to ten days. By the time my other seedlings are coming up, the first wave of feeding has often passed.
If I harvest a few radishes, that's a bonus. If the insects eat them first, they've done exactly what I planted them to do.
Integrated Pest Management
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an approach that combines observation, prevention, and targeted action rather than relying on routine pesticide use. Healthy soil, proper watering, crop rotation, companion plants, trap crops, beneficial insects, and hand removal all play a role. Pesticides become one tool among many, not the first solution.
Even products labeled as "natural" or "organic" should be used thoughtfully. Insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, neem, and other organic products can still harm beneficial insects if they're sprayed directly on them or applied when pollinators are active. Whenever possible, spray only the affected plants, avoid open flowers, and apply treatments in the evening after bees and other pollinators have finished foraging.
Always read and follow the label. Organic doesn't automatically mean harmless, and different products have different instructions, restrictions, and pre-harvest intervals. Knowing when, where, and how to apply a product is just as important as choosing which product to use.
Healthy Plants Resist Disease
Healthy, vigorous plants are naturally more resistant to both pests and disease. While diseases do occur in vegetable gardens, most problems can be reduced by starting with healthy soil, watering properly, providing good air circulation, and avoiding unnecessary stress on your plants.
Did you Know?
Even Timing Matters
Evening is generally the safest time to apply many garden products because most pollinators have stopped foraging. However, remember that some native bees, especially males, spend the night sleeping inside flowers. Before spraying, check for bees and avoid treating blooming flowers whenever possible.
Weeding
The secret to a weed-free garden is staying ahead of the weeds. It's much easier to spend a few minutes pulling small weeds each week than to tackle an overgrown garden.
Healthy, loose soil makes weeds much easier to pull, often bringing the entire root with them. Straw mulch also helps by preventing many weed seeds from reaching the soil or blocking the sunlight they need to germinate.
Intensive planting helps as well. As your vegetables grow, their leaves shade the soil, leaving less light for weed seeds to sprout. The few weeds that do emerge are often spindly, weak, and easy to remove.
Never let a weed go to seed. One weed is easy to pull. Hundreds of seeds become next season's problem.
True Cost
The True Cost of Every Decision
When we decide what to grow, it's easy to think the only cost is the price of the seed packet or transplant. But every gardening decision asks us to invest something.
Before I plant something, I like to think about its true cost.
-
Money – Not just the seed or plant, but the soil, fertilizer, irrigation, and everything else it takes to grow.
-
Space – Every square foot devoted to one plant is space that can't be used for another. Is this the best use of that space?
-
Water – Some vegetables ask for much more water than others. Am I willing to make that commitment?
-
Time – Will I harvest in 30 days or 120? How long will this plant occupy my garden?
-
Energy – Will it need frequent watering, pruning, trellising, pest management, or repeated harvesting? How much of my time and energy is this plant going to require?
-
Hope – Hope is the reason we're willing to make compromises. It's what makes us decide that a little more water, a little more work, or a little more space is worth it because the harvest, the memory, or the experience matters to us.
There are no right or wrong answers. A garden has limited resources, and every choice is a tradeoff. The goal isn't to grow everything. It's to grow the things that are worth the investment to you. Hope is what helps us decide which costs are worth paying.
Root - Shoot - Fruit
In native gardening, I use the term Sleep, Creep, Leap. The first year a plant sleeps, the second year it creeps, and the third year you see that big growth spurt, the leap.
Vegetable gardening happens much faster. Instead, I think of it as Root, Shoot, Fruit. It's a simple way to remember the order of a plant's priorities. First, it establishes strong roots. Then it develops healthy leaves and stems. Finally, it puts its energy into producing the part we're hoping to harvest.
When you walk through your garden, over time, you'll begin to notice things you may have overlooked before:
-
New growth
-
Flower buds and blossoms
-
Pollinators and other insects
-
Soil moisture
-
Birds and wildlife
-
Weeds while they're still small
-
Signs of stress before they become problems
Nature is always giving us clues. The more we learn to notice them, the better gardeners we become.
Vegetable gardening is one of the fastest ways to reconnect with the seasons. Some years you'll harvest baskets of tomatoes. Other years the insects will win, or the weather won't cooperate. Every season teaches something new. Start small, pay attention, and don't be afraid to make mistakes. The garden will always give you another chance to learn.